Jemma wrote:If you list the colours or options you’d like to put in a poll I’ll try and edit it into the first post, poll creation is pretty easy however it needs to be set up with the first post which you won’t be able to edit any more.
In terms of manufacture, I’m another manufacturing type (well currently I’m quality manager for a heavy manufacturing place but have worked in design and production too), I’m no plastic manufacture (we mainly do fabrication, machining and assembly here) but understand how the process works pretty well (fluid flow within a dye/mould), so may be able to help a little, obviously you’d need to run it past your manufacturing team too.
Bolts – one worry I have is that using metal bolts mating to a plastic thread will reverse the problem you have now. Are you planning on having metal nuts that they mate into, if not I would strongly advise you to consider it. The metal thread will just cut into the plastic thread and it will wear very quickly. It should be straight forward to design the plastic shelf to have a clip underneath that a square bolt can be pressed into (this will prevent rotation and also mean that minimum assembly is required). This will also wear much better and should be easily replaced if you use a bog standard size.
Bolt head – just a thought on this one, a wing headed bolt would be a great idea, but another option that may be more flexible would be to use an eye bolt. This is nice and easy to fasten with fingers but would also mean items could be hung from them (outside the cage though), and also if needed they could be use to suspend a shelf ( would need to be a purely triangular shelf though, with no curvature extending beyond the fastners, not sure if this is a useful option though).
Lips – for me a lip would be a very good idea, I don’t use open topped shelves anymore as they do get smelly fast, and it allows me to scatter feed in more palces in my cage. I would say though that you’d need to make a lip a good inch high and ideally a little higher at the back (to prevent or reduce kicking out). This would need a good internal radius on it to make sure it was easy to clean out, my gut feel is 5mm would be the minimum, I’m not sure how that would effect the plastic moulding characteristics as it would add a fair bit of thickness in places. It may also be worth considering some holes evenly spaced near the top of the lip, these could be used to secure ladders to it, or ropes and hanging points.
Hanging points – These would be an enormous benefit if you could achieve them. Thinking back to my ferplast shelves you could extend some of the ribs that add structural rigidity down rather to create a hanging lug or loop. I can understand why having them aligned but below the lip would be problematic (your asking the liquid to flow in two directions at once and that wouldn’t be ideal, especially with a radius for the lip), however extending down from supporting ribs nearest the edge shouldn’t effect the moulding process from my understanding of it. In fact I think it may be fairly easy to ensure all or most ribs had a circular hole in them depending on how deep they are. Allowing about 7-8 mm hole (or 5mm minimum) should enable hanging from underneath the shelves easily enough.
Shape – Corner shelves are always useful, especially in cages like the SRS or explorer without supports, however curved corner shelves do limit some things even though they give a good surface area. How about considering straight edged triangular shelves (I would suggest 45-50cm opposite and adjacent sides as this would fit most cages). This would mean that if people wanted they could butt two shelves up to each other and create a larger square shelf. Not sure if this would add anything or not. Perhaps if this proves to be good value in a year or so’s time it may be worth investing in a deeper rectangular tray that could be suspended or hung (to help it adapt to different widths), I know I use heavily adapted cat litter trays as my predominant shelves (melt holes all the way round the lips for hanging things under as well as fastening them to the cage.
Surface texture – smooth is good if you wanted to put litter in it, if it was to be a open shelf I would advised some texture, but not the annoying criss cross of current ferplast shelves. Something like a very light bumpy texture (think slightly raised tiny polka dots) which is well radiused (should make it easier to mould as well as clean) would mean that the shelf is a bit grippier and low level urine isn’t left in too much in puddles for the rats to stand in (help avoid bumble foot).
Hope that’s some use, I do find design really interesting lol, as much as I’ve gone away from that now.
Fascinating post, thank you so much.
I need to digest what you have said and run it past the people here who will understand it better than myself, but thank you again
Re colour choices any chance of a poll for the following: Black, Dark Blue, Dark Purple, Dark Red, Baby Blue, Baby Pink, Yellow, Lime Green, Dark Green, Lilac/Light Purple, Bright Pink, White Thank you
